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Library of information The information contained in the Library is for general information purposes only. Foundation | Electrical | Plumbing | HVAC | Mold | Fireplace | Septic | Termites
A slab foundation is
designed with concrete footings and /or underground piers and concrete
floors. A pier and beam foundation consists of either wood or concrete
piers that support beams above the ground. These beams support the floor
joists and the floor joists supports the floor. A pier and beam foundation
has a crawlspace under the home. it’s a good idea to inspect this area
from time to time for plumbing leaks, flooding, rodent activity, and other
potential problems. Water should not stand next to the foundation for an extended period of time. The moisture in the soils will cause the foundation to heave in that area. The source of the water can be rain, or any number of possible plumbing leaks around the home. Repairing leaks is a must. Soil next to the foundation should be pitched in a way that will drain rainwater away from the home. it may be necessary to build the soils up next to the home with sandy loam or topsoil. Remember, dirt should not extend higher than 2 inches below the bottom course of brick for a slab foundation or half way up the perimeter footing of a pier & beam foundation.
Clay soils next to the
foundation, if they become too dry, will shrink, crack, and pull away from
the perimeter of the foundation. The subsoil then loses its ability to
support the foundation. Sooner or later the foundation will crack and
settle into this void. These soil cracks can also admit water during heavy
rains. The water will then wash the soil out from under the foundation.
This will only make things worse. When the soil starts to separate from
the foundation by up to an 1/8 of an inch, the soil needs water. Watering
of the foundation should be uniform in order to minimize the possibility
of exerting uneven pressure on the foundation. A sprinkler system, if
installed and utilized properly, can provide the best protection. The next best option is to place soaker hoses 12-18 inches away from the foundation. Water at least a few days a week, 10-15 minutes at a time, during the dry seasons of the year. A wye at the faucet and an in-line timer will reduce the effects of watering. One last note, do not plant trees within 10 feet of home. Surface rooting trees, such as Willows, Mulberries and Maples, should be planted even farther away from the home. (top) Circuit breakers or fuses protect the electrical wiring and equipment in your home. These breakers and fuses could be compared to a safety valve that would limit the amount of power to a particular part of the home. Switching the breaker to off and then back on can reset circuit breakers. Fuses, which can be found in older homes, are a onetime use product. if they go bad, they must be replaced with another fuse of the same amperage. This assumes the proper rated fuse was installed in the first place.
Call
an Electrician if you are not familiar with the workings of your system.
Always make sure the power is off when working with electricity. Do not
take your life into your own hands working with electricity unless you
know exactly what you are doing. One tenth of one amp is enough
electricity to kill a person!
A common and
legitimate concern is about aluminum wiring. Aluminum, like copper, is a
good conductor of electricity. Most of the high voltage lines in this
country are made of aluminum reinforced with steel. Aluminum wire is also
commonly used for the wire that connects a house to the power transformer
at the street. Aluminum was not used for the branch-circuit wiring that
runs throughout the house until the 1960's. in the early 1960's a copper
shortage drove up the price of copper. When this happened, electricians
turned to aluminum wire. The problem is that they were using aluminum in
conjunction with switches, wall outlets, and light fixture that were
designed for copper wire. Unfortunately aluminum does not behave the same
way copper does. When aluminum is exposed to air, a film of aluminum oxide
forms on the metal's surface. This oxide is an insulator, not a conductor
of electricity. if the wire is not firmly attached to an electrical
receptacle in the first place, the aluminum oxide can build up rapidly.
While aluminum, like other metals, expands when it gets warm and contracts
when it cools, it expands and contracts more than copper. When electricity
flows through an aluminum wire, the wire resists the flow of electricity
and gets warm. if the wire is held in place with a screw made of a
dissimilar metal, the screw forces the wire to expand, loosening the
screw. When the current stops, the wire contracts. Although the movements
are microscopic, the continual expansion and contraction can eventually
work the wire loose. Vibrations and temperature changes around the wire
can also lead to loose connections. When the wire is no longer making a
sound connection, arching will occur. This is how fires are started. There
are specific devices and methods that are considered acceptable for use
with aluminum wiring. if you a considering purchasing a home with aluminum
wiring, have an Electrician inspect the integrity of each connection in
the home.
Here are a few things
to look for:
Do yourself a favor and check the ground fault circuit interrupters (GFCi) and bulbs before calling an electrician. (top) Bathtubs and showers need to be kept grouted and caulked. This is typically an ongoing maintenance issue. You don't want water entering behind the tiles and becoming trapped in the wall. This will cause the tiles to become loose on the wall and the wall itself to deteriorate. it will be best to use the original type of grout or caulk when making repairs. The one exception is, you should use a silicone caulk at the base of the tile around the bathtub. Getting in and out of the tub tends to separate grout at this seam. A soapy finger or spoon will leave a smooth finish when applying caulk. Water heaters should be flushed every year. The first thing to do is shut of the gas or power to the unit. Connect a garden hose to the valve at the base of the unit and begin draining the water heater. Exercise caution while doing this, the water could be quite hot! Leave the cold side shut off valve open in order to flush the unit properly. You will want to flush the water heater for about 5 minutes. if the drain valve drips slightly after being closed, take a metal hose cap and a washer and place it on the valve fitting. All water heaters have thermostats to regulate the temperature. Do not set the thermostat to high, especially if you have young children in the house. Someone could get burned. Choose a reasonable setting.
All water heaters
should have a temperature and pressure relief valve installed somewhere
near top of the unit. The relief valve is designed to relieve pressure in
the tank if the thermostat fails and the unit continues heating beyond the
preset temperature. The drain line from that valve should empty to the
outdoors. Make note and check that area occasionally for indications of
leakage. The T&P drain line should never empty under a pier & beam house. The plumbing lines that penetrate through the roof are vent pipes to your sewer system. Dangerous gases are vented out of the home through these vents. Sometimes they can be used to run a plumbing snake through to clear a clogged drainpipe. Outside faucets play an important role in maintaining a home's foundation and landscape. Leaky exterior faucets can lead to foundation problems if repairs are not made in a timely manner. Remember to disconnect all hoses from faucets before freezing weather sets in or the pipes in the wall may freeze and break. During exceptionally cold weather, open the sink cabinet doors at exterior wall. This will also help keep pipes from freezing. it is a good idea to have a water meter key and wrench in the garage. You never know when you may need to shut the water to the home off quickly. (top)
Heating and Air
Conditioning
Most air conditioners
operate on the same basic principle. A compressor takes refrigerant, a gas
at room temperature and pressure, and compresses it to 300-400 pounds per
square inch or psi. The compression of the gas heats it up a great deal.
The hot gas is then sent through a set of condensing coils where it is
cooled and condenses. This liquid is then allowed to expand back into a
gas in a radiator type device called an evaporator. As air is blown across
the evaporator, it is cooled. This cool air is then delivered into the
home via air ducts.
A drip pan and drain
are installed below the evaporator coils to catch water that condenses on
the coils and then drain it away. Sometimes this drain can become clogged.
if the unit is installed in the attic, there should be a secondary drain
pan and line that will catch the water and drain it to an area that will
be noticed. Typically the drain will terminate at an eave. if you find
water dripping from the secondary line, you know that the primary line is
clogged and should be cleared.
One way to test the
air conditioner is to take the temperature of what comes out of the supply
and what goes into the return vents. The difference between these two
temperatures should fall between 15-22 degrees. Any temperature reading
outside of that range is an indication of a problem. A reading of between
0 and 5 degrees is usually an indication that the unit is not working at
all. A reading between 5 and 15 may indicate that the unit is low on
Freon. it is not uncommon for the system to need to be recharged with
refrigerant every few years but in most cases, a leak is normally present
and should be repaired. if you get a high reading of above 22 degrees,
there may be a blockage of airflow somewhere in the system. The parameters
mentioned above are a general outline. A licensed HVAC contractor will
need to make a full evaluation of the system in either case. Gas fired furnaces heat air by blowing air over a hot heat exchanger. The heat exchanger is a steel vessel that contains the flame and combustion gases above the gas burners. The combustion gases are vented out through the chimney of the furnace. The steel vessel is subject to thermal cracking and corrosion from acids in the gases. Because of this, a serviceman should check the unit a least once a year. The pilot light should be turned off during the months it is not in use. Heat from the pilot light tends to attract excess moisture into the heat exchanger if left on during a season when the furnace is not being used. The excess moisture in the steel heat exchange can cause the unit to rust and crack. When the heat exchange is cracked, dangerous combustion byproducts will enter the air stream and be circulated throughout the home. if there is any rust or irregular flame pattern observed at the furnace, a serviceman should be contacted immediately. Electric furnaces use a series of heating elements to heat the air. These elements sequence on one at a time and heat the air. There is little to no maintenance necessary with these types of units. A heat pump reverses the refrigerant cycle of the air conditioner to carry the heat into the house. it also incorporates a two part electric furnace. One series of heating elements turns on, when needed, to help the heat pump produce heat. An emergency switch located on the thermostat controls the second series of heating elements. These heating elements will provide heat if the actual heat pump goes is not working. The emergency heat mode should only be used to get by until a serviceman can repair the unit. (top) Mold is everywhere. There are more than 100,000 species of mold in the world and at least 1,000 common species are found in the United States. Some molds are beneficial, such as those used to make cheese and medicines. Some however can cause serious illness and, in some cases, even death. Growing mold produces tiny spores in order to reproduce. The mold then ejects the spores which will float through the air looking for a suitable place to begin new growth. All mold needs to get started is suitable material with a surface moisture content of about 20%. This level of moisture can be achieved by simply surrounding wood with air at 90% relative humidity at any temperature between 40 to 100 degrees Fahrenheit . When mold spores land on a suitable damp spot they will begin to grow and digest the host material to survive. in this respect, mold is considered to be a wood destroying organism. Common places for mold growth in homes include bathrooms, kitchens, laundry rooms, basements and crawl spaces, air conditioning ductwork and equipment, and concealed places between walls and floors. Mold can basically be found anywhere where the moisture level permits its growth. When materials that are moldy become damaged or disturbed, large numbers of spores can be released into the air. You can be exposed to mold by inhaling these spores, by handling the moldy materials, or by accidental ingestion. Molds can produce a variety of chemicals called mycotoxins. These chemicals are used by the molds as a defense mechanism against other molds or organisms that compete for living space or are otherwise threatening. Mycotoxins from molds can be very dangerous in high concentrations and have even been used in the past to produce military nerve gas. Fortunately, the types of molds that are routinely encountered in low concentration are not particularly hazardous to healthy people. Exposure in higher concentrations however can represent a health threat. The severity of symptoms depends on the amount of exposure and the individual's particular vulnerability. infants and children, the elderly, persons with respiratory problems, and compromised immune systems, are most vulnerable. Some of the conditions that have been associated with mold exposure include memory loss, nose bleeds, allergy, cold and flu-like symptoms, eye irritation, coughs, wheezing, difficulty in breathing, sinus and nasal congestion, skin irritation, head aches, and a variety of infections both mild and serious. These three families of molds Aspergillus, Penicillium, and Stachybotrys tend to get the most recognition whenever mold is mentioned in relation to contamination problems in the home. Each of the families contain numerous strains and collectively they represent several hundred species, many of which are potentially harmful. The stachybotrys family is debatably the nastiest of the three and its various strains are often associated with the above mentioned health problems. Stachybotrys, like many types of mold, is greenish black and typically grows on materials with a high cellulose content that are chronically wet. There are numerous cellulose containing materials used in home building: everything from drywall to insulation to wood and paper products. Chronic moisture can be caused by everything from high humidity to plumbing leaks to unintended water penetration. There is no practical way to eliminate all mold and mold spores in the indoor environment. The object is to control indoor mold growth and this can only be done by controlling moisture. if there are no suitable areas present in the home for mold to grow and flourish, then mold contamination will not be a problem. The old adage that "an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure" truly applies in the case of indoor mold contamination. in order to enact prevention, the home must be properly inspected for the potential of mold growth. Any and all potential problems found must be eliminated. if conditions conducive to mold growth are found to exist, further investigation to determine if mold has indeed begun to grow is warranted. Any located mold can be sampled and analyzed by a testing laboratory to identify the exact species. if mold growth is rampant, it is important to know what type of mold you are dealing with. Sampling and laboratory testing is the only way to find out. How the cleanup is conducted (and who should be doing the cleanup) is dictated by the type of mold involved. Some molds can be safely cleaned away by the homeowner. Small areas of mold on surfaces are best cleaned away using an appropriate household cleaner or a 10% bleach-to-water solution. if you are already having medical symptoms that might be associated with mold, its best to get someone else do the cleaning. Always use gloves and dispose of rags and sponges that were used during the cleaning process. Make sure to thoroughly dry the area. For large areas of growth, or for mold in enclosed spaces such as between walls or in ductwork, you will need to consult a professional abatement or remediation company. Make sure you use a qualified company who knows how to deal with the problem correctly. Unqualified personnel can actually spread the mold spores to every nook and cranny of the house and can contaminate the entire structure and its contents. Whenever mold is found growing it important to find the underlying reasons for its appearance so that corrections can be made. Without making corrections to the underlying cause, the mold is sure to return. This may mean patching a leaky roof, correcting points of penetration in exterior siding, repairing plumbing leaks, or getting better control over humidity in the building. Severe mold problems can be expensive to correct and there have been extreme cases where it was more cost effective to demolish the building than make all the needed corrections. Home insurance companies in Texas have begun a push to drop coverage for mold related issues. With any luck the desire of the insurance companies in this regard will not become a reality in our state. insurance coverage issues aside, the concerns about mold contamination are real. it has been said that the mold issue are the next asbestos or lead paint. South Coast inspections believes it's much worse than that.. Consider this; there are a limited number of structures that contain lead-based paint or asbestos in existence in this country. The number of such structures decreases with each passing year as they are either remediated or demolished. Once lead-based paint or asbestos has been properly eliminated from a structure (or the structure has been demolished), the issue has been resolved...end of problem. Mold on the other hand is different. it is not a construct of man but is rather a fact of nature. it does not have to be built into, or brought into, any structure. Mold finds its own way. Every structure that has ever been built, or ever will be built by man, has the potential to be contaminated by mold. Further, any structure that has had a mold problem corrected is subject to re-contamination regardless of how meticulous the remediation/abatement/removal was originally performed. Mold contamination is an ongoing concern for every structure in existence...period. Check for any problem area that might allow water penetration into the structure or that keeps any areas outside of the structure chronically wet. Look for roof leaks paying close attention to all flashings and jacks. Also check the gutter system to see if it is in need of maintenance. Check all exterior walls for any points of water penetration paying close attention to flashings and seals around doors, widows, and connected decks. Makes sure that all areas that require caulk are indeed caulked and that the caulk is in good condition. All exposed wood should be painted, or be pressure treated, and all paint should be in good condition. Check for exterior plumbing leaks and look for any exterior indications of interior plumbing leaks. Check the conditions around the foundation. The finished grade around the house should slope away from the foundation. Any gutter downspouts should be piped or have splash blocks to prevent soil erosion and to direct effluence away from the structure. Look to make sure the soil level around the foundation is not so high as to allow water to reach the exterior siding be it wood, brick or stucco. if there is a crawlspace under the structure, it should be inspected for proper grading and ventilation. if there is a moisture barrier present check to make sure its in good condition and that it covers the area properly. There should be no low areas that will allow standing water. Check all supply and waste plumbing pipes for any sign of leaks. Any automatic sprinkling system should be tested to assure that it does not spray the structure. Also, the amount of water applied by the sprinkler system should not be excessive so check the time and frequency settings for each zone. Mold is most often found in damp areas such kitchens and bathrooms, hvac systems, basements, and in poorly vented attics. Mold can be found virtually anywhere in a home if a moisture problem exists. All living and storage areas (including basements and attics) should be visually inspected for obvious mold growth and for any conditions that might allow for the growth of mold. Make note of any rooms or areas that have a musty or damp smell. Check all accessible plumbing under sinks, tubs, and in the attic for any sign of leaking. Pay close attention to shower pans. Look for signs of condensation generated by the steam of any activity that uses hot water. Also, check for leaks from all water using appliances such as dishwashers, washing machines, and ice makers. Look for stains on ceilings, floor, and walls that might indicate an exterior water penetration problem that was not visually evident from the exterior. Also check on the inside of windows and doors for leaks and signs of condensation. Check the attic areas for any signs of outside water penetration and for any moisture problems that might be created from within. Make sure that drier vents and exhaust fans are vented to the outside air and not into the attic space. Check all visible plumbing, both supply and waste pipes, for leaks. Look at the exterior of ductwork and air conditioning equipment for condensation problems. Make sure that insulation is present and in good condition on any related piping that is required to be insulated. its also important to inspect the interior areas of air conditioning equipment and ductwork for the presence of mold. There are two ways to check for mold growth in hidden spaces between walls and under floors. There is the destructive and the nondestructive methods. Most people naturally want to take a nondestructive approach and this is done by taking indoor air samples. if there is mold growing in hidden spaces, the evidence of its presence will be in the air. Air samples are taken with special equipment under controlled protocols and are then analyzed by a certified testing laboratory. Since mold is everywhere, baseline samples must also be taken outside of the structure for comparison purposes. The lab report will include species identification as well as levels of concentration.
The destructive
approach need not be an exercise in building demolition. Small holes
are made in various locations and the hidden spaces are then viewed with a borescope or special video equipment. Solid samples can be taken of
any located growth areas for laboratory analysis.
The value, and
livability, of your property can be adversely affected by mold
contamination. Some species of mold are toxic and represent a threat to
the health and safety of your family and pets.
(top) The fireplace in many homes is the center of attention during a cold winter's night, but ignored the rest of the year. This is unfortunate, because they can be very dangerous if not maintained properly. Heavily caked creosote can catch on fire in the chimney. Temperatures in a chimney fire can reach up to 5,000 degrees. At these temperatures the mortar between flue tiles can melt and allow the fire to spread to the rest of the home. The entire home could be lost in a matter of minutes. Regular cleaning of the chimney is highly recommended. The mortar cap, at the top of a masonry chimney, tends to crack and allow water to enter between the bricks or stone and mortar. if left in this condition for an extended period of time, mortar between the bricks at the interior firebox will become loose. in some instances, it may be necessary to restack the entire fireplace if the damage is severe. This cap should be inspected at least once a year for damage. if cracks are found, simply seal them with mortar. Under NO circumstances should yellow or white pine or coal be used in ANY fireplace, metal or masonry. (top) Septic Systems All septic systems are either anaerobic or aerobic type systems. Most homes built prior to the early 90’s have a conventional (anaerobic) system. in recent years many homeowners are spending the extra money to install an aerobic system. There are advantages and disadvantages to both systems. Conventional septic systems are the least expensive type of system to install and maintain. They are designed to settle waste in the bottom of a tank that is buried in the ground. Bacteria then processes the waste. Effluent (liquid waste) is drained out into lateral lines that are buried in crushed rock below the ground. The earth cleanses the contaminated effluent. One major problem with this type of system is that clay soils are dense and will not absorb the effluent. The TNRCC recommends that the tanks be pumped and inspected approximately every 2-3 years. An aerobic system has the ability to process waste within the system at a very high rate. Once the effluent has been cleansed and chlorinated it can then be used to water the yard. These systems are popular in areas that have heavy amounts of clay in the soil or on small lots that cannot support enough lateral line to effectively operate a conventional system. in order to have an aerobic system installed, most areas require that you maintain a quarterly maintenance schedule with a licensed professional. (top) Termites and other wood destroying insects are a major concern for anyone when it comes time to purchase a home. Most lending agencies require an official Wood Destroying insect inspection by a contractor that is licensed with the Structural Pest Control Board. The inspection is designed to let the lending agency know that the home is basically structurally sound. it is not a structural damage report or even a warranty as the absence of the insects. it is a visual inspection only. There are numerous areas of the property that are not accessible to the inspector for inspection. While there is no way to be assured that the home is termite free, a visual inspection is still an invaluable service. The Wood Destroying insect inspection is also designed to notify customers of potential problem areas know as conducive conditions. Conducive conditions are conditions that will invite the termites and other insects into the home. if you are getting your home ready to put on the market, there are some things that can be done to help insure that the inspection goes smoothly.
Call Today to Schedule an inspection of Your Home... Phone: 409-737-1190 (Galveston) Phone: 281-996-1846 (Houston) Request an email quote: info@scinspect.com Website Comments: mark@scinspect.com if you would be interested in a home inspection as a measure to protect your investment and family, please call South Coast inspections anytime. if you have a friend or family member that may be interested in our services, please tell them about South Coast inspections. (top)
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